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Visualizzazione post con etichetta ENGLISH. Mostra tutti i post

lunedì 9 marzo 2015

Tuscan "Ribollita" Soup


Yet another post in english dedicated to my "worldwide-pals"!
Today I'd like to introduce you a vegetable soup very popular in tuscany and so much apreciated by the tourists coming  in my region.

The "Ribollita" in the origin was created in tuscan's countrysides as a "poor" and simple vegetables soup in order to recycle the stale bread piled up during the week.

Although every restaurant in Florence and in Tuscany prepares and serves it's own recipe that can taste differently case by case, there are a few important rules that every "Chef" follows.

Someboy sayed: "The first rule of the Ribollita is: you do not talk about..." No, wait! That's another quote... ;-)


Tuscan gastronomes agree on the fact that this soup was certainly created using the variety of season vegetables available in late fall and winter, so there are some essential still points about the ingredients making a "first rule":
therefore for this soup you'll need this basic vegetables:

- kale (also called "black tuscan cabbage"),
- chard (and absolutely don't replace it with spinach!)
- cabbage (green, or still better: Savoy cabbage)

moreover:
- white tuscan "cannellini" beans (prefereably not the canned ones but boiled on your own!)

Another rule is to use the (unsalty!) stale bread piled up during the previous days and the last rule is that is preferable to eat this soup the day after, but having it re-boiled again (in-fact "Ribollita" in italian letterally means: re-boiled) and serve it hot and seasoned with a drip of raw tuscan extra virgin olive oil.


Traditionally the base of this soup is a simple sautéing in extra virgin olive oil of carrot, celery, and onion, (in Florence these ingredients besides to parsley are called in the whole "odori", that in this case can be translated into: "flavours"). But, in modern times for an unwritten rule of many restaurants, many chefs add bacon and/or pork fat to flavour this soup. Obviously by this way cannot further be considered the traditional one but just one of some variations on "Ribollita" theme.

About this traditional recipe I remember when I was on the point of teaching the "Ribollita" in a class at school to a british vegetarian family of indian origin, after reading the ingredients they asked me if we could make it without pork, as by travelling in Italy and having tried several restaurants they had come to the idea that it was a necessary ingredient in every soup!
When I assured them that the "real" one was without and it was by far much better, they thought that actually I was making an exception and were grateful to me for doing this... but IMHO that's the way the "Ribollita" has to be made!!


Ingredients
for 10-12 servings


2 bunches of Kale
2 small bunches of chard
1entire small (or a half of a big)  Savoy cabbage
500 gr dried cannellini beans
a few leaves of sage
2 cloves of garlic
400 gr stale tuscan bread
2 potatoes
2 carrots
1 large white onion
2 cloves of garlic
2 celery ribs
a sprig of thime
10 spoons of extra virgin tuscan olive oil
tomato paste (or a small tin of canned tomatos)
salt


Put the white beans in a pot with cold water and let them soak for a whole night, then drain this water and pour some new one in the pot, up to cover the beans.
Add the sage and the garlic and bring to simmer on gentle heat. Cook until beans are tender but still entire. Let cool then remove the garlic and the sage

Wash and rinse all the vegetables, cut the cabbage in thin stripes, remove the rib by the kale leaves and chop them (the leaves!), chop also the chard.

Mince finely onion and garlic , cut celery and carrots in small slices and put everything in a large pot with the extra virgin oil.
After a few minutes add thyme, potatoes cutted in cubes and all the vegetables leaves chopped previously.

Cook for a few minutes, then add the tomato paste (or the peeled ones), stir and cook still some other minutes.

Strain a third of the beans and save them for later, then grind the remaining two thirds with their broth and add to the soup.
Season with salt and cook the soup between 45 and 60 minutes, depending on the size of vegetables cutting.


At the end of cooking add the entire beans left previously apart then cut the bread in thin slices, add it to the soup and stir to soak it entirely. Put off of the heat and let cool completely, stirring every once in while and adding salt if necessary.

Rest in the refrigerator till the following day.

Before serving it, put the soup in a pot, if too dry add some vegetable broth and bring to boil.

Serve piping hot with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

-o-

I wish I meet you soon in Florence at the cookery school where I'm a teacher to enjoy cooking with you!!

You can keep in contact to follow all school activities by subscribing as a follower to the school blog or directly writing at:

info@gigliocooking.com
lavetrinadelnanni@virgilio.it

Bye!

martedì 2 dicembre 2014

"Ciabatta" bread



This post is dedicated to all of my english speaking readers and it's just the first of many other ones signed by ENGLISH label.

You have to know that I work in a cookery school in Florence - Italy - in which for long periods I've been teaching cooking and baking most of all to american, canadian, british and australian people.

By this experience I learnt how different backgrounds on food culture creates different attitude on cooking and when learning italian cuisine often there are different demands and espectations.
That's why I do prefer split up my publishing in two different languages instead of writing them in both, italian and english.

This is one of the recipes I use to teach in my bread classes at school, to those who like go deeper on italian cuisine, in particular in making bread.

The "Ciabatta" is an almost flattened bread which is avalaible almost in all bakery shop across my country.

By stepping into bakery shops in Italy you'll be wondering at the variety of different breads and baking products standing in the showcases, and it's not just a question of shapes...
Bread ingredients themselves can be very different among products shown standing side by side, starting right from the flours.

There's a simple reason for that: Italy is a country divided in regions and by the word "divided" I'd like to highlight that there can be very deep differencies among regions about cooking and baking, but... in-spite of that it's also normal in Italy for many regional breads (almost every town in Italy own its tipical one) being available pretty far from it's land of origin!

Almost everywhere in my country you can find salty bread from Apulia and Sicily, "ferrarese" bread from northern regions, sardinian "carasau" and tuscan unsalty bread (besides to french "baguettes", but this is another fact...)

About Ciabatta bread it's not clear to me which is the exact origin (perhaps from northern Italy...), and anyway it really doesn't matter, it just can be defined as one tipical italian, flattened, salty bread.
It's name could be translated as "slipper", probably inspired  by its flattened and stretched shape. 

Being tuscan, I use to eat  unsalty bread and I'd rather prefer it, nevertheless I do much prefer a well-done salty bread to a bad unsalty one! ;-D
 
-o-

Going deeper on bread-making technique, this dough is based on a longlasting fermentation "biga", eventually brought by kneading to a high hydratation value.
And know you'll ask: What the hell it's a "biga"???

Practically a "biga" is a preliminary dough made in order to bake better bread, enriching it's flavour, using a smaller amount of yeast, and giving better workability to the dough itself.

For this purpose it's reccomended to use a "strong" wheat flour, namely a flour with a high proteic content, ensuring the required glutinic web development besides to a substantial water absorption.

Making such bread at home is not so straight, but surely it's worth a try.
I higly reccomend you to use a food-processor.
Otherwise if you don't own one, you can try by using hand-technique like the so called "slap and fold" one (very well shown in this video) but I have to warn you how tough can be this job!

-o-

“Ciabatta” bread – Biga method

“Biga” ingredients
1.000 Wheat flour “Manitoba” kind
440 gr Water
10 gr fresh yeast

Knead shortly these three ingredients and let rest covered possibly at 18°C for 20-24 hours.

Dough ingredients
Biga (see above)
100 gr wheat bread flour
330 (260+70) gr water
2 gr fresh yeast
11 gr barley malt
22 gr salt

Rip the biga in small chunks and add it to the other ingredients except for the salt, which will be added in the middle of kneading process and for 70 gr of water which will be poured slowly at the end.
Check the final temperature of the dough which preferably should be 27°C.

Let it rest covered in a greased container in a warm place for about 40', then dust the table with flour and gently knock over the dough.

Dust the dough and with a baker-scraper cut it in equal pieces, that have to be ultimately placed on dusted boards leaving the cut side on top.
Let rise 40' then turn gently strechting slightly.

Bake in a very hot oven (240°) possibly with “steam”.

 -o-


If you're planning a journey in Italy, passing through Florence, apply for a "bread class" with me at  "Giglio Cooking" top-rated cooking school on Trip-advisor, in order to learn how to prepare italian bread on your own, I'll be so glad to show you this and many other delicious bread recipes.

You can keep in contact to follow all school activities by subscribing as a follower to the school blog or directly writing at:

info@gigliocooking.com
lavetrinadelnanni@virgilio.it

I wish I meet you soon in Florence!!

Bye!

Lettori fissi

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